Changes in the production materials of Burmese textiles in the nineteenth century—dyes, mordants and fibres of Karen garments from the British Museum’s collection

Abstract The materials of six Karen textiles from the British Museum’s collection were investigated with main aim studying production changes over course nineteenth century and how these related to local colonial trade networks. span chronologically 1830s early 1900s according their attribution dates, include traditional garments such as tunics skirts, in addition representing a broad colour palette different dyeing weaving techniques. investigation was conducted non-invasively by using digital microscopy, broadband multispectral imaging (MSI) fibre optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS). results guided sampling campaign during which samples taken optical microscopy (OM), scanning electron energy dispersive X-ray spectrometry (SEM–EDX) high-performance liquid chromatography coupled diode array detector tandem mass (HPLC–DAD-MS/MS). Local natural dyes, red yellow Morinda citrifolia , lac dye ( Kerria lacca ), gamboge Garcinia sp.), turmeric Curcuma longa indigo tannins found older textiles, supporting possible production, whereas mixtures synthetic including alizarin (CI 58000), rhodamine B 45170), orange I 14600), diamond green 42000), G 42040), auramine O 41000), naphthol S 10316), chrysamine 22250), crystal violet 42555) Pigment Red 53:1 15585:1) identified later textiles. Observations on mordants revealed use aluminium, tin chrome, characterisation highlighted not only cotton Gossypium sp.) but also felted wool imported Europe Chinese silk dyed cork tree Phellodendron chinense ) dye. draw an interesting picture introduction new techniques Myanmar century, impacted